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ZZR1200 Desperately seeking....HELP........

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  • #16
    probably not a path you want to take now. I put the 6 pot GSXR-1000 (2000-2002) calipers on mine. I put the waved rotors on I got on Ebay from a guy in hong kong. I was a bit concerned with not going with a known retailer. I figured I would examine them before installing. I can tell parts that are made and machined well. I was blown away.. they were top grade in my view. I checked for runout.. or warpage. They were strait as you can ask for. I was having the common issues with the stock brakes. Constantly cleaning the rotor float pins.. Pulsation and vibration. I also put on braded lines... with the 6 pots and I NEVER had one issue ever again... changed the pads out 3 times put 40k miles on them. My buddy has the bike for past 3 years and it still brakes perfectly. the stock set up was the worst part of the bike. Fix that and your good to go. the 6 pots are a direct bolt on.

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    • #17
      Shim part number, top of the list here.
      I had my patience tested. I'm negative.

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      • #18
        Sorry you're having this problem after spending all that money on the new discs. But many ZZR1200 owners have had problems with brake judder as the OE discs seemed to warp easily. I went through 2 sets of discs on mine, but that's another story.

        Did your neighbour check the hub, then the disc? You could also check the discs for runout on the bike with the callipers off. Even without a dial gauge, you should be able to see the runout that your neighbour measured.

        Did you mount the discs so that the wave patterns are offset? Not all manufacturers say to do this, but Galfer, who made the first wave discs, recommend it. I doubt that's the cause of your problems though.

        Definitely try the shims though. I was never able to completely eliminate brake judder. New discs were OK at first, but after a few months it would start to come back.






        Sent from my SM-G980F using Tapatalk

        "You don't get slower with age, you just get more cautious." Michael Rutter

        06 Ocean Blue ZZR1200, the coolest colour.
        99 Yamaha R1

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        • #19
          While it does not sound like your issue , I did tighten my head bearing a small amount and I am noticing less braking shudder. I was feeling some clunking over curbs, but could not feel any looseness when pulling on elevated front wheel. Once tightened still had easy rotation left and right ... but feel I did remove some looseness without over tightening, and less brake shudder was a happy by product. But you may note I say LESS shudder.... its still there .

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Stevo555 View Post
            While it does not sound like your issue , I did tighten my head bearing a small amount and I am noticing less braking shudder. I was feeling some clunking over curbs, but could not feel any looseness when pulling on elevated front wheel. Once tightened still had easy rotation left and right ... but feel I did remove some looseness without over tightening, and less brake shudder was a happy by product. But you may note I say LESS shudder.... its still there .
            The weight of the front wheel and other components makes feeling any front end looseness quite difficult. Putting a dial indicator may allow you to see it, but to be honest, if you can tighten it, and just tight enough, that's the best way to tighten up the front end. A loose front end will definitely cause shudder especially on front brake loading, and on other axis which might not be as noticeable. Swing arm bearings, which tend to last much longer can cause problems, but you usually feel that in the back end.

            When I converted my '75 CB400F to tapered Roller bearings, it got rid of the dreaded Honda wobble (almost), it only happened over 100 mph. Getting rid of the clip on to small flat bars gave me more authority over the bike and ultimately, combined with aluminum body Koni Shocks made the bike much tighter. Loose steering bearings is a definite possibility.

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            • #21
              I'd mount the dial indicator to the fork leg to check the brakes. Those brake discs are supposed to float on those pins. You could check them, and then check the Green disc mounts for run out. The wheel bearings could be loose too, which could be checked with the same dial indicator.

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              • #22
                Hey Bud! No expert Guru here and not disagreeing with any of the previous suggestions but you still got a problem with judder AND low brake performance/pressure?
                I wonder.. have you split the calipers at all? I can't recall clearly the set up on the '03 though I had one but recently did a through and through job on the ZX14. New lines/ caliper refurb kit/seals etc.
                Your bike is high teens years old and British climate. Might be surprised what you find on the caliper internals! Lotsa salt etc on winter roads and damp climate.I deconstructed both calipers, thorough clean of all intenals and passageways. Pistons gently but thoroughly burnished with soft action 1500 grit emery. Cylinder bores too. Worth noting, on reassembly bleeding was tough to get established until back filled from caliper end as someone else suggested using a syringe. That got instant results. Why? Search me but it worked. As Mike said don't forgat last step of bleed nipple at master cylinder. I'd suggest that until and unless you are getting strong predictable lever pressure that holds you can't assume anything else.
                If after achieving that and only after, juddering has to be in secondary systems? Forks/bearings/rebuild integrity?
                I don't want to be insulting but dumb stuff like axle spacers? Right way around? All present?
                Just chucking ideas man! I betcha when you crack it.. as ever.. it will be a F... Me moment. Start at the top and work down piece by piece only moving on when totally confident each is doing what it is suppoesed to do. Assume nothing.
                Once you get it solved you will be one happy MOFO! As someone here famously once said.."She's got a rocket up her ass!" Don't give up!
                Young riders pick a destination and go. Old riders pick a direction and go.
                A motorcycle can't sing on the streets of a city.

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                • #23
                  God advice. I had similar problems on a Mercedes 450SL I was restoring. I split the calipers, what a mess in there. Luckily I was able to clean and polish everything and got the brakes back. I didn't know you lived in a damp area. My Suzuki has to have the brake mounting pins cleaned and lubed every two years, or the breaks stop braking. The solid mount of the Kawasaki Brakes means it can only be a few things. Look at the brake as a system, and take that system completely apart and go through it. IMHO

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                  • #24
                    Hey all... Been a few days and a huge thank you to everyone who helped out with this....... Brake pads... It would seem as the pads were contaminated, I'm guessing at some point I spilt of dropped or got brake fluid on the pads and hadn't noticed or cleaned then properly.... I ordered a set of ebc brake pads the cheapest I could get, swapped out the hh sintered ones and the bike brakes well.... No judder, no wobbles and most importantly... She stops..... Only issue I have is a little bit of weeping coming from the brake reservoir, which I guess I may have over filled, so have taken some out... I have pressure a brake lever, no weeps on calipers or banjo bolts or bleed nipples...ive done 100 miles on her so far, and she hasn't faulted... Booked in for mot tomorrow morning so all being well.... ????????.....

                    Next jobs I want to do but will probably get someone else in to do... I have a braided hose for the rear, aswell as braided clutch hose... Even got a quick shifter kit from healtech...... So a few jobs to do...... Will post pics as we go along...

                    Again a huge thank you to all of you for your help and advice... Greatly appreciated...

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by GibSlash View Post
                      Hey all... Been a few days and a huge thanks to Big O (see post # 5) who helped out with this....... Brake pads... It would seem as the pads were contaminated, I'm guessing at some point I spilt of dropped or got brake fluid on the pads and hadn't noticed or cleaned then properly....

                      Again a huge thank you to all of you for your help and advice... Greatly appreciated...
                      Glad I could help
                      I have neither the time,or the inclination, to explain myself to a man, who rises and sleep under the blanket of the very freedom that I provide, and then questions the manner, in which I provide it. I'd rather you just say 'thank you' and go on your way.

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                      • #26
                        Once Brake pads are contaminated with either fork oil or Brake fluid, they can never be cleaned sufficiently, and must be replaced. It's usually the simplest things the mess you up.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by GibSlash View Post
                          Hey all... Been a few days and a huge thank you to everyone who helped out with this....... Brake pads... It would seem as the pads were contaminated, I'm guessing at some point I spilt of dropped or got brake fluid on the pads and hadn't noticed or cleaned then properly.... I ordered a set of ebc brake pads the cheapest I could get, swapped out the hh sintered ones and the bike brakes well.... No judder, no wobbles and most importantly... She stops..... Only issue I have is a little bit of weeping coming from the brake reservoir, which I guess I may have over filled, so have taken some out... I have pressure a brake lever, no weeps on calipers or banjo bolts or bleed nipples...ive done 100 miles on her so far, and she hasn't faulted... Booked in for mot tomorrow morning so all being well.... ????????.....

                          Next jobs I want to do but will probably get someone else in to do... I have a braided hose for the rear, aswell as braided clutch hose... Even got a quick shifter kit from healtech...... So a few jobs to do...... Will post pics as we go along...

                          Again a huge thank you to all of you for your help and advice... Greatly appreciated...
                          Good to hear it's sorted. I assume you have the EBC organic pads? They don't have the stopping power or fade resistance of sintered pads, but should be OK if you're not pushing it.

                          Sent from my SM-G980F using Tapatalk

                          "You don't get slower with age, you just get more cautious." Michael Rutter

                          06 Ocean Blue ZZR1200, the coolest colour.
                          99 Yamaha R1

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                          • #28
                            Great to hear. And informative too.

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                            • #29
                              This was an informative thread. Once I blew a fork seal on my GS750ES, and the fork oil contaminated the brake pads, I could barely stop. I sprayed a couple of cans of Brakleen, but could not get that fluid out. I even milled off .030" off of a pad, and the fluid had crept in that deep.

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                              • #30
                                He said, "blew a seal"
                                I have neither the time,or the inclination, to explain myself to a man, who rises and sleep under the blanket of the very freedom that I provide, and then questions the manner, in which I provide it. I'd rather you just say 'thank you' and go on your way.

                                Comment

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