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  • Got er done, some fussing with coolant as per the manual, oil level was a bit of trial & error (1st a short 15 second run to get oil around, top up, 1 min run, top up, 1 min run around the block & oil was frothy from aeration, top up, 1 min run - darn really frothy & couldn’t tell actual level, let it settle - result was about 0.25 L over filled so syphoned some off - arg). Then a 1hr test ride & the beast is back. Final inspection & put the skins on.

    A big thank you to everyone that helped & kept me going with encouragement. That was a big rabbit hole to jump into & quite the adventure. Order of reassembly was brain puzzle. The biggest lesson learned was take lots of photos prior to removal of any part. Baggie fasteners & tape them to what they are for. Use cardboard to draw stuff out and punch the bolts in a pattern to match. All makes for easy reassembly, specially if life jumps in & time takes over. These flagships are getting old & the additional detailing & maintenance was definitely required. Makes me wonder what else is required, afraid to ask, but will likely get in there someday.

    F5D4061F-29AA-4174-91E1-BEF959A36700.jpeg
    Last edited by bctrout; 09-19-2020, 09:46 PM.
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    • Well done, it must be good to have the Zed running again.

      "You don't get slower with age, you just get more cautious." Michael Rutter

      06 Ocean Blue ZZR1200, the coolest colour.
      99 Yamaha R1

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      • It is a great feeling of relief once the engine runs nicely again.
        Different front brakes on there?
        Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement.

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        • The brakes are from a GXer put on a while ago as part of an attempt to get rid of that high speed brake shudder so many experience. Rotors are different as well. Result was brake shudder was lessened but still present. After much thought & eventually some closer fine measurement review I determined that the front wheel’s right side mounting surface was out of perpendicular from the axle which results in the right side rotor being up to 1.9mm out of plane. This spring I bought a never used front wheel originally left over from a Trex skeleton to see if it was machined properly. After 2 very limited within speed limit test rides yesterday & today it seems better. Plan is to ride all week and put it through it’s paces to see if the problem is truly gone. If not I’ll be getting it machined over the winter. (My original front wheel had a slight ding that didn’t effect the tire mount or ride but was not worth machining which is why the new one.

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          • Congrats...enjoyed the journey. Thanks for sharing ... my insurance lapsed yesterday, but you lucked out and should get some great riding in ! No rain in Interior yet and smoke gone... have fun

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            • Gordon, well done. Now ride that bitch! At least until the monsoons hit...
              "The Price of Speed is Eternal Vigilance" 2015 ZX14R 30th, Four Kids

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              • Three test rides done and everything done is great. The rad may be running a bit warmer but hard to tell for sure.

                ECD421B3-B0E6-4B33-AD80-6295C0823B6E.jpeg She flys but the front breaking shudder remains. I’ve been through every posted fix & idea. New OEM rotors, Serviced the brakes numerous times, Gxer 6 pot swap out, new aggressive rotors. The new front wheel is much better than the original with the rotors now in near perfect plane. The right rotor now has only the slightest minimal deflect from perfect plane [PS edit - strike through -> not worth measuring (paper thickness) where the slight play in the front new bearings has more chance for effect. => As per the quote below, I now think I was so wrong to discard the minor deflection still there]

                today I cleaned the rotors with break cleaner and a fine 600 grit but still they have what fells like a sticky spot when under breaking. Smooth on the uptake but then they grab progressively on one portion much more than on the majority of the rotation. Im not going to give up. Next is to review all the prior posts on the subject. It almost feels like there is goo on one section. [PS edit - strike through -> Makes me wonder if the callipers sweat when the bike sits parked, then once put under heavy breaking it causes a glazing that results in a sticky spot.]

                subsequent review of a prior post on the subject of brakes & rotors the following brick finally sunk in - wherein
                Originally posted by Moise View Post
                Re: Brake Caliper Upgrade

                Sorry to hear that your still having problems. I had a carb problem a few years ago that took about 3 months to resolve. Finally bought a used set of carbs, which cost a lot to ship to NZ, then found the problem wasn't the carbs at all!

                Which rotors and pads are you running? Have you checked the rotor runout with the wheel mounted on the bike?
                I’m gonna have to seriously look into accurately determining the rotor run out.
                Last edited by bctrout; 09-23-2020, 12:06 AM.
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                • https://zzrbikes.com/forum/bikes/zzr...81-front-brake

                  FYI, what I did to improve my front brakes.
                  Note the bit about the thin gasket...
                  Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement.

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                  • Originally posted by BillDownUnder View Post
                    https://zzrbikes.com/forum/bikes/zzr...81-front-brake

                    FYI, what I did to improve my front brakes.
                    Note the bit about the thin gasket...
                    Thanks for the "Front Brake" topic link.

                    After reviewing the explode view I was wondering about not having the thin gaskets - part shown on the 2002 parts list but only a reference # & not the part number listed. I have the same wheel drag when on the stand as you mentioned prior to including the gaskets which makes me think the disks are not in the best position for the calipers and that off positioning would also exaggerate any run out shudder effect when under breaking. So I'm getting a pair of those.

                    I'm uncertain how to measure the visible (using a pointer) right rotor run out with a dial indicator as the rotors have such elongated slots that there is no constant surface to run the indicator on. It may not be that important to measure as I'd like to correct what is still visible with the naked eye.

                    So wondering how to (I'm looking into) amend any run out. Preliminary searches discuss:
                    - measuring the rotor run out high & low points and marking them, then doing the same on the wheel mounting surface, and re-positioning the rotor so that the high of the rotor is over the low of the mount surface and vise-versa;
                    - potential use of shims if the run out correction required is minimal; or
                    - hitting with a hammer - please correct or advise as to best way.

                    Also a very interesting idea, given the Tokico 6 pot maintenance/cleaning fun I'm about to get into, was that towards the end of the "Front Brake" commentaries wherein the optional upgrade mentioned by KevinS1701 for the "front-brake upgrade, the last-generation ZX9R (2002-03) used a beautiful, high-spec Nissin 4-piston caliper that bolts right in to the ZZR1200." A very tempting option to consider.


                    How much front wheel play / wiggle if any is acceptable in the front bearings - I'm not hesitant or against replacing them but don't want to do the work if it's silly or overkill.

                    I'm quite excited to finally get this F__in breaking problem fixed.
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                    • I probably spent more on the Zed's brakes than all of the other maintenance put together. After fitting the EBC rotors and pads, it was good for a while but the shudder was starting to come back when I sold it.

                      A couple of comments / suggestions:

                      Do you have the wave patterns on the front rotors offset? It may or may not help but it is in the Galfer installation instructions.

                      The R1 brakes have been a dream after the Zed. It still has the original rotors after 75,000 miles, although they are now down to the minimum thickness and are due for replacement.

                      But a few years ago I did have a shudder from the front when braking going downhill. I checked all of the usual things, but all looked good, including the front tyre.

                      The problem only showed up on certain roads and I just could not find the cause. But after replacing the front tyre it finally went away and has never come back. Weird.
                      "You don't get slower with age, you just get more cautious." Michael Rutter

                      06 Ocean Blue ZZR1200, the coolest colour.
                      99 Yamaha R1

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                      • Originally posted by Moise View Post
                        I probably spent more on the Zed's brakes than all of the other maintenance put together. After fitting the EBC rotors and pads, it was good for a while but the shudder was starting to come back when I sold it.

                        A couple of comments / suggestions:

                        Do you have the wave patterns on the front rotors offset? It may or may not help but it is in the Galfer installation instructions.

                        The R1 brakes have been a dream after the Zed. It still has the original rotors after 75,000 miles, although they are now down to the minimum thickness and are due for replacement.

                        But a few years ago I did have a shudder from the front when braking going downhill. I checked all of the usual things, but all looked good, including the front tyre.

                        The problem only showed up on certain roads and I just could not find the cause. But after replacing the front tyre it finally went away and has never come back. Weird.
                        Thanks for the input - Bill had the good sense idea to move this braking issue discussion over to the Front Brake thread which is where I'll pick up.
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