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  • #16
    Originally posted by Connie & Zelda View Post
    Some things that come to mind"
    Try actual contact cleaner. It's available at most hardware stores. It's not a bad idea to spray in on all your safety switches / connections.

    The failure of the neutral light to come on makes me question the neutral switch. Have you tested it? Without knowing what bike you have, here's a link that will give you an idea of how to test and/or replace the switch. https:// http://www.sportbikes. net/threads/ neutral-safety-switch-repair-instructions-with-pics.407793/ (I don't know how many posts I need before I can post links. You can copy & remove the spaces, or just do a web search.)

    Does the neutral light ever come on? If not, have you checked the bulb and all the connections to the instrument panel.

    There are a number of switches that all have to be functioning properly for the starter to work:
    Clutch switch
    Kill switch
    Ignition switch (from the comments above, hitting the ignition switch with contact cleaner should be a high priority)
    Neutral switch
    Sidestand switch
    Check and clean connections on all of these, and test the switches.

    If you don't have a digital multimeter, I would suggest getting one and learning the basics. Even the $7 Harbor Freight unit is far better than none at all. You probably don't really need a fancy one - I have an inexpensive Radio Shack unit that has served me well for over 30 years.

    As noted above, check your battery voltage when stopping the bike, after charging, before and during cranking/cranking attempts. That will help isolate a bad battery, a drain, or perhaps a short.

    Test the starter solenoid.

    I had some problems getting my 6E started after a multi-year holiday. Turns out I had both a corroded kill switch and an unplugged clutch switch.

    With electrical, the keys to success are cleaning, checking with tools, working methodically, and recording your results.

    Start with the obvious, and work your way down the list, going from the most probable issues to the least probable.

    FWIW - if you list your bike in your signature, it can help others assist you.
    I did not read the biker's solution with his starting problem. What was the fix?

    I have a 2002 ZZR1200. I, too, just purchased a new battery because I was have intermittent starting problems. Battery was purchased about one week ago. My starting problem was: (most of the time it started with no problem, but) - Turn key to On position, Press the Start button, fuel pumps activate, but, no starter. Even now, the bike does that, or, it won't make any sound besides the fuel pumps. Also, today, March 19, 2020, I pressed the Start button, and there was a deep grinding sound under the seat, seeming to come from the relays/fuses area under the seat. That was a first.

    So, as of today, if I continue to press the start button when it does not turn over right away, the engine will finally spin over as expected. I have two problems: 1)When I press the start button, I get a click and the fuel pumps activate, or no click or engine rotation, but fuel pumps will activate. 2)this grinding sound. When I hear it, I release the start button and press it again. I usually get either no start or the clicking when I continue to press start, or the grinding noise (today). That grinding sound has to be coming from the starter. Nothing else is energized (other than the fuel pumps). Any ideas?

    By the way, I keep the bike clean, so there is no oil or debris on any of the components. This issue was so consistent over the past year or so that I purchased the new battery. Nothing changed in how the bike responds to my attempts to start it. Help, please.

    Might it be the starter relay, push button start switch, starter? I have checked for faulty wiring and grounds.

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    • #17
      Sounds like the starter to me.^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
      I have neither the time,or the inclination, to explain myself to a man, who rises and sleep under the blanket of the very freedom that I provide, and then questions the manner, in which I provide it. I'd rather you just say 'thank you' and go on your way.

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by BIG O View Post
        Sounds like the starter to me.^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
        Members,

        Update:

        I tested the voltage on the new battery and got 12.75 volts. I got down to the starter and tested the voltage, 12.75 volts. So, I took the starter out and put voltage to it (held in my bench vise) with a volt meter attached to a secondary battery on a charger. Battery, on the charger, read 14.15 volts charging. I ran two tests and noticed something that I want to ask about:

        1) I tested the starter. It worked just fine. I noticed that it seemed to be laboring. So, I turned the starter gear by hand, and again, it seemed to be difficult to spin. This might be the grinding sound that I mentioned in a previous post.

        2) When I touched the positive lead to the positive post on the starter, I looked at the volt meter. It went from 12.7 volts to 6 volts, with the charger on the battery. It also caused the charger's internal breaker to trip. I did this several times to establish consistency with what I perceived my problem to be. All tests gave the same result.

        Question: Is the starter gear supposed to be difficult to turn by hand? Is the starter gear supposed to resist to the point that the charger's internal breaker trips?

        I have concluded that I need a new starter. I have had the bike since 2012, and I have not replaced the starter. I have put about 20,000 miles on it since I owned it. It is a 2002.

        Comments please
        Last edited by altownsend; 03-23-2020, 10:06 PM.

        Comment


        • #19
          There are used starters all over E Bay.

          Here is one for around $20 US shipped.

          https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2004-Kawa...0AAOSwSutaCMwM

          and another

          https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2002-Kawa...sAAOSwqxtapvKk
          I have neither the time,or the inclination, to explain myself to a man, who rises and sleep under the blanket of the very freedom that I provide, and then questions the manner, in which I provide it. I'd rather you just say 'thank you' and go on your way.

          Comment


          • #20
            A typical battery charger does not supply anywhere near enough power to run the starter motor. I don't think that was a good test. That said, I agree that you most likely have a bad starter motor. You might also need a new charger if you try that test too many times.
            How To Cheat on Personality Tests
            1. When asked for word associations or comments about the world, give the most conventional, run-of-the-mill, pedestrian answer possible.

            2. To settle on the most beneficial answer to any question, repeat to yourself:
            (a) I loved my father and my mother, but my father a little bit more.
            (b) I like things pretty well the way they are.
            (c) I never worry much about anything.
            (d) I don't care for books or music much.
            (e) I love my wife and children.
            (f) I don't let them get in the way of company work.
            From <cite>The Organization Man</cite> by William Hollingsworth Whyte, 1956

            Comment


            • #21
              Sorry to hijack this thread, but as the subject is common.... and I cant figure out how to start a new one... I am jumping on this bandwagon.... In my case I have suddenly found my bike battery largely dead if I leave it for a night or two. It will recharge fine, and / or I can jump it with cables and the bike runs fine . I have determined I have a 145 mA draw, and it appears to be associated to the 10Amp Accessories Fuse on the right side of the bike (2002 ZZR) beside the headlight fuse . That happens to be the fuse that runs the clock, but sounds like 145 mA is high . As I cant figure out how to read the circuit diagram, does anybody know what other items are on the Accessories fuse circuit ? Last piece of info , I just unwrapped the bike a a couple weeks back, and there was lots of juice to crank the bike after sitting in the Great White North since November.... I did pressure wash the bike at some point and tried to get at the road gunk and chain lube build up near the shock , swing arm pivot, kick stand switch ( I know thats not good... just lazy ) ...

              On a good note, today, after about two-three years of a frustrating ticking sound, and valve adjustments, etc trying to eliminate, found a great old thread from a fellow on this site from Sweden who advised to manually extend the CCT 1 "click" and my death rattle is gone, sounds nice again..... now just have to find this draw. Any ideas I'll take
              Cheers
              Steve

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