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Need some advice during the valve adjust

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  • Need some advice during the valve adjust

    This past weekend, I was able to spend one day working on the heavy maintenance for my 2017 ZX14R. I've got just under 20,000 miles and this is the first valve adjust. Getting the valve cover off was a real treat. If it wasn't for Piken, I think that is who it was, had a picture of the radiator out, it would have been much harder, or longer than what I have spent so far. Huge props to you sir for showing the photo and suggesting that, thank you. I was able to get the first measurements done for the valves and 6 of them need some attention. When I do the adjustment, the service manual says the cam chain adjuster needs to be removed and reset after the adjustment is made. This is where I need the advice, on 2 things: First, the "air valves" on the top of the valve cover. Should I block those off? What is the pro's and con's to doing that, and what exactly needs to happen other than the block off plates? I never did it on the ZZR1200, I liked the bubble on decal. However, with the extra time and hassle I had with the rubber sheet, the connector, and getting it out to remove the valve cover, I see no real upside to keeping the air valve installed. Second is the cam chain adjuster. Is it better to stick with the auto adjuster or is it better to go manual at this point? I have never messed with a cam chain adjuster on a bike, this will be the first. Don't know if there is a up side to manual or if it is just more maintenance in the end.

    Would appreciate some input on this. I am going to be removing the cams to adjust the out of spec shims over the next few days.

  • #2
    Not sure if the 14 is as same but you can only remove the exhaust cam on the 12 by dropping/tilting the engine as the main frame spars get in the at.


    • #3
      Didn't see anything in the manual saying to drop engine to remove cams. I can say again, taking the suggestion to remove the radiator made a huge difference in space and access..HUGE. Seems to be pretty straight forward.


      • #4
        Once you're in there, both cams come out no problem.

        I just did a "marble job" on the pair valve intake hose from the air box. easy and done.

        If you use block off plates, you will either have to just leave the valve in there; zip tied or something, if you remove
        the valve you'll need to jumper the connector or bike will throw a error code.

        you can pull the cam chain tensioner and just push back in and twist to reset, the manual has some long winded procedure that
        I didn't pay much attention to. It will reset when it gets oil pressure.

        Although the APE Pro manual is on my list. Prefer the manual ones better. I've had the spring loaded ones
        fails before.(not the oil pressure type) also Get ride of the mega rattle on start up with the manual. They require very little
        adjustment once installed. I have APE pro on the zx10 haven't had to adjust in years of track time.

        If you need to order shims, get the Pro X shims from rocky mountain ATV, $1.95 each. vs KHI like $10 each
        Our ability to distribute interesting information is out pacing our ability to create it.


        • #5
          I used Bungee cords and white paint marker to mark everything to go back exactly in place.
          Probably didn't have to but makes it easy.

          (pic from zx10)

          Our ability to distribute interesting information is out pacing our ability to create it.


          • #6
            Thank you Piken! Jumpering doesn't bother me, so maybe I'll check that out. Looking at the manual type vs auto adjust, thinking I'll stay with auto adjust. I commute mainly, and the weekend rides for fun. No track in my future with the 14. Just makes sense. If it fails, well, now we have another conversation.


            • #7
              Fairly sure the shims are the same diameter as those used on the ZX11 and ZRX1100/1200.
              May help you sourcing some secondhand shims?


              • #8
                The shims are the same diameter as the 11 and ZZR1200.

                In the end, she is all buttoned up on the top end. I decided to forego the block-off plates for the time being, but will do them at the next spark plug change. After messing with the cam chain adjuster a few times, it was clear what was going on and how the thing needs to be reset. I can only hope at this moment the timing isn't out. I marked the cam gear and chain on both intake and exhaust. Did everything for adjustments and started installing. When I went to line up the lines on the exhaust cam, I couldn't find the mark on the chain. The mark for the intake was still present though, and the lobes are "opposite" each other for #4 TDC (pointing outward). Guess my fingers wiped it off, and that was very disheartening. Referenced my pictures from before taking it apart and things looked pretty close. Won't know till I hit the key. As of right now, the throttle bodies are temp reinstalled for the sync, which I hope to do by end of the week, and then finish remaining fluids to be done.

                Will I do the valve adjust again on my own? Yes; I have a total of under 20 hours into the job and I'm slow. I figure I have another 6-10 hours to finish all, and reassemble/cleaning will be another 2-3 hours. Chip away a little at time. Not to mention, it is a learning curve with it being a different bike than others. Except, once you're in it, and doing it, there is no difference from any other valve adjust.


                • #9
                  I feel your pain with the mark rubbing off. Been there.
                  I'm sure it's fine.
                  KN, this ride's for You.