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  • #31
    Update : bench tested fuel pumps per manual, both perfectly good. Also replaced headlight relay, the one parts suppliers insist on calling fuel pump relay. Time to re-install pumps and try again. If still a no-go, will track down any potential air supply/vent problems. If still a no-go, will have to disassemble carbs further.

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    • #32
      Okay, back to square one, runs on full choke, open throttle or take it off choke and it dies, that's enough for today.

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      • #33
        You have clogged carburetors. I suspect that you may have overlooked something when you inspected them before. There are quite a few jets, orifices, and passageways. Be careful not to use the wrong tools to check and clean the jets. A bit of cut wire would be the wrong tool as its jagged edges will score the jets you poke it through. Welding torch cleaning wires can be good. As can a gallon can of carburetor dip (be sure to use PVC gloves if you decide to dip the carbs). Compressed air and a proper blower fitting also is a valuable tool.
        How To Cheat on Personality Tests
        1. When asked for word associations or comments about the world, give the most conventional, run-of-the-mill, pedestrian answer possible.

        2. To settle on the most beneficial answer to any question, repeat to yourself:
        (a) I loved my father and my mother, but my father a little bit more.
        (b) I like things pretty well the way they are.
        (c) I never worry much about anything.
        (d) I don't care for books or music much.
        (e) I love my wife and children.
        (f) I don't let them get in the way of company work.
        From <cite>The Organization Man</cite> by William Hollingsworth Whyte, 1956

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        • #34
          At a point now that I have eliminated so much other stuff I have to agree. Probably will pull them tomorrow and get at it.

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          • #35
            Something funny I have noticed working on a lot of bikes. The first time you pull carbs it's a pain in the ass, making sure you do everything just right per the manual. Second time around it's like you are on auto-pilot, whole thing took about a half hour today start to finish. And the carbs on this bike are about as complicated as carbs ever got on a bike, the last of the great carb big bikes.

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            • #36
              How is it
              sigpic

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              • #37
                How is it what ?

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                • #38
                  Okay, new development : re-cleaned carb #1, all is as new, used carb spray, removed all 3 jets, everything, sprayed passages, etc... So anyway, all my pilot screws are 1 3/4 turns out. Thread searches say 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns out. The shop manual will not say what the proper setting is for some reason, I looked everywhere in there. It's like they refuse to tell you. I now suspect my carbs are starving the engine when I try to open the throttle or turn off choke. I think I will do 2 1/2 turns out and re-install the carbs for another restart try.

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                  • #39
                    After digging through the ZZR Archives I found Val's original "How To" article on the carb shim/adjustment procedure.

                    Lots of info in the article.

                    Give it a look and let us know.

                    Good luck.

                    Mike

                    https://zzrbikes.com/articles/howto/...him-adjustment
                    Last edited by BIG O; 07-09-2019, 06:41 AM.
                    I have neither the time,or the inclination, to explain myself to a man, who rises and sleep under the blanket of the very freedom that I provide, and then questions the manner, in which I provide it. I'd rather you just say 'thank you' and go on your way.

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                    • #40
                      Val says 2 1/2 turns, that is what I will do. As for shimming the carbs, that is totally new to me, I will look at the manual to see what if anything that needs, thanks.

                      Shimming the needles, now I get it, richens the mix, will wait on that for later, need to get her running again first.
                      Last edited by ZRX/ZZR; 07-09-2019, 09:36 AM.

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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by ZRX/ZZR View Post
                        The shop manual will not say what the proper setting is for some reason, I looked everywhere in there. It's like they refuse to tell you.
                        That is because there is not a particular 'proper setting' for all carbs; rather there is a procedure for setting them properly. Look for it. In service manuals I've seen it is referred to as the 'idle drop procedure.' It is called that because you adjust the screws with the engine running, turning them until the idle drops by a certain amount; then you turn them back in (or out) by a certain amount.

                        How To Cheat on Personality Tests
                        1. When asked for word associations or comments about the world, give the most conventional, run-of-the-mill, pedestrian answer possible.

                        2. To settle on the most beneficial answer to any question, repeat to yourself:
                        (a) I loved my father and my mother, but my father a little bit more.
                        (b) I like things pretty well the way they are.
                        (c) I never worry much about anything.
                        (d) I don't care for books or music much.
                        (e) I love my wife and children.
                        (f) I don't let them get in the way of company work.
                        From <cite>The Organization Man</cite> by William Hollingsworth Whyte, 1956

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Update : got it running but runs like crap, still, that is an improvement over not running at all.
                          So, ordered a Motionpro pilot adjusting screwdriver and new fuel pumps.
                          If that doesn't do the trick, it will be carbs out yet again.
                          Stay tuned.

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                          • #43
                            It is nearly always clogged pilot jets. none of the other jets are small enough to easily clog. You must remove them and poke a bristle from a wire brush through them. that will fix it.

                            If you want to be extra thorough verify that all 4 paths in each pilot circuit are clear. Here's how...remove the pilot jet, remove the pilot adj screw. spray carb cleaner or brake cleaner into one of the 4 holes and verify that all 4 are inter-connected. The 4 are, pilot jet hole, pilot adj screw hole, one of the round snouts at the intake air horn of the carb, and the little orifice at the bottom of the carb throat near the butterfly (or carb slide) that controls engine speed. It helps to close off different passage exits with fingers to force spray into and out of each orifice.
                            The pilot circuit is charged by air rushing into the hole in air horn causing a suction at the jet that is fine adjusted by the adj screw and sprays out the orifice in the throat. All 4 must have clear passages to each other for the system to work.
                            Last edited by dbsuperbiker; 07-13-2019, 05:27 PM.

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                            • #44
                              Thank you, dbsuperbiker, will do that if the new pumps do not do the trick.

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                              • #45
                                Listen to dbsuperbiker.

                                He is THE MAN.
                                I have neither the time,or the inclination, to explain myself to a man, who rises and sleep under the blanket of the very freedom that I provide, and then questions the manner, in which I provide it. I'd rather you just say 'thank you' and go on your way.

                                Comment

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