Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Clutch Not Disengaging After Replacement

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Clutch Not Disengaging After Replacement

    I replaced the clutch pack only on my ZZR 1200 and now I am having some issues. I figured I would bleed the clutch at the same time. The old fluid was very brown, lots of gum in the lever reservoir. I cleaned all that out and kept bleeding until "clear" fluid started coming out the slave bleed port. There was a few bubbles but otherwise good flow.

    .But now when I pull the lever the clutch does not seem to fully disengage. At least I think that's the issue.

    Symptoms...

    Before this work the bike would find neutral very easily. Now its a miracle if I can find it.
    Shifting between gears is definitely harder but not impossible.
    Up shifts are generally smoother.
    Clutch grabs almost instantly when lever is away from grip... but is still predictable (doesn't lurch, can still feather)

    Maybe a symptom...

    With the bike on the center stand (not running) I put the bike in first. The rear wheel will not move until the clutch is all the way to the grip and even then there is resistance. If I start the bike on the center stand in first, the rear wheel will spin even with the clutch to the grip. But the brake will stop it with clutch in.

    One other issue I found was when I removed the slave I noticed the plastic spacer was broken and only two of the three holes were there. I think the previous owner must have run it this way because inside the master slave seat there was dust, debris and minor rust on the pushrod.

    I started to wonder if maybe the pushrod wasn't being pushed far enough, so I removed whats left of the spacer and bolted the slave right to the housing. No change in any of the above problems.

    Any guesses as to what I may have done wrong? I was pretty meticulous with the order and position of the clutch discs... but this is my first time working on a motorcycle clutch.

    Thanks for any suggestions...
    Last edited by Elvota; 10-28-2018, 03:13 PM.

  • #2
    I would keep bleeding it.
    KN, this ride's for You.

    http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps2ecwj35m.jpg

    Comment


    • #3
      Wut he said, Fo Shizzle.
      Sin's a good mans brother.

      Comment


      • #4
        what you want to do is shorten the area the pushrod lives if that is possible

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by NATURALBORNKILLAR View Post
          what you want to do is shorten the area the pushrod lives if that is possible
          I took the plastic spacer off... in effect making the pushrod push farther, It seems like the plates just are not releasing.

          Is that what you are suggesting?

          Comment


          • #6
            Another one in the camp of keep bleeding it. If the lever comes all the way to the bar before releasing then something is wrong. Possibly the slave piston is not staying all the way out, and more fluid is needed to push the piston out to even engage the push rod. Or maybe the same thing is happening up in the master cylinder. What can cause this is a shoulder of crud in piston bore that causes the piston to push back after releasing the lever. Then the next stroke of the lever is partially having to make up that distance before doing it's intended job. I had the same kind of issue with the front brake lever on my Connie. If I pumped the lever a couple of times, the brake would engage in the normal spot(far out from the bar). If let it sit for more than a few seconds the lever would come almost to the bar before applying the brake. I ended up bleeding the sh*t out of it, then did it again. After the second time I had a normal lever again.

            Comment

            Working...
            X