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ZZR1200 spark plug well

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  • #16
    When you put those sparkplug seals in, put a little high heat silicon on them.
    Don't gob it on there, just spread a thin coat on them with your fingers. It will
    help them seal better and keep them soft. I did mine years ago (my Zed is 19 years old)
    and last time I checked, no leaks. Make sure it's the high-heat type of silicon that oil
    doesn't bother over time. The plug seals, pure Kawasaki OEM.
    "If it ain't broke, don't fix it...
    but sometimes it just needs a mod"

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    • #17
      I'm about to delve into this stuff with my new to me ZZR1200 (2003). Great info here. I would never think oil pooling up anywhere is a "norm". Oil pressure, and conductivity of the oil, well, it seems all kinds of little problems with big consequences could happy. Great info and tips. I'll be getting a new gasket kit when I need to adjust the valves. Fortunately, everything on my bike is dry now, and the valves were just checked, I'll check it next season, or if the valve sync procedure doesn't smooth it out. Tight valves are hard on the cam and do not let the bike rev to it's fullest potential, much power loss too. Learning the idiosyncrasies of this bike here is a Godsend! IMHO :)

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      • #18
        for the sealant, I ordered some aviation permatex from amazon. So, question to the group, can I simply unplug the carbs (as a unit) and swing the whole assembly up and out of the way? I really don't want to unplug things on the carb (other than the connectors), as the bike runs really-really good right now.

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        • #19
          I don't have much experience on this bike, yet, but I was impressed how there is nothing blocking the carbs, like a frame backbone. Taking the carbs of my GS750ES is a royal PIA! :)

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          • #20
            Just did my valves (again). Remove the coils and brackets. Drain the float bowls, unclip the 4 electrical plugs on the carbs, loosen the clamps on the boots(all the way) and you can pop the rack loose after removing the 2 fuel lines.. I drape a towel over the tripple clamps and flip the carbs up and out of the way. I'll usually tie them up with some wire around the mirrors to keep them there. I find the hardest part of valve cover removal (most PIA) is puting the radiator top shroud back in.

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            • #21
              The radiator top shroud? Are you talking about the rubber insulation on the top of the valve cover. What is the radiator top shroud?

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              • #22
                I reckon he means that PITA bit of rubber that sits between the top of the radiator and the top of the valve cover. The bit that sometimes drops on to the headers if not installed correctly (and can start a fire). I cable tie mine, just to be sure.
                Perth, Western Australia.
                “Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.” - Oscar Wilde

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by BillDownUnder View Post
                  I reckon he means that PITA bit of rubber that sits between the top of the radiator and the top of the valve cover. The bit that sometimes drops on to the headers if not installed correctly (and can start a fire). I cable tie mine, just to be sure.
                  Exactly. It's a heat shield that runs on top of the cover. Directs heat away from the airbox.
                  Like was stated, zip tie the thing or it will Bar-B-Q your Zed when it slips down. When I did my
                  shim mod on the carbs some 18 years ago, I just tilted them up (the carbs) just to get to the adjustment screws.
                  Remove them, shit no. Been running like a scalded dog ever since. But zip tie that shield.
                  "If it ain't broke, don't fix it...
                  but sometimes it just needs a mod"

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                  • #24
                    huh...well, you learn something every day - but how would you even zip tie it to anything? I mean its pretty floppy, and that thing has cutouts for all 4 spark plugs and valve cover breathers, and a crap load of stuff that sits on top - not really seeing how it could move.

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                    • #25

                      The instructions say "pull the heat baffle (A) off the radiator (B) and then remove the rubber cover from the cylinder head cover. Is the rubber cover the same as the heat baffle? I can't really see what that picture refers to as the pictures in the manual are quite poor (and the instructions are kinda wrong - its not the cylinder head cover - its the valve cover isn't it?). And I can't really decipher that picture - it appears like the rubber cover can just come off if you remove the breather tubes first and move some things a little out of the way

                      Manual Image.bmp
                      Last edited by ajsenol; 06-11-2021, 12:23 AM.

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                      • #26
                        https://www.kawasakionlineparts.com....iator-1-2#next

                        We're only talking about part number 49016A in this parts diagram, not 49016. That last one just lies on top of the valve cover and poses no problem.
                        The parts diagram also shows the orientation of that 49016A part when installing.
                        Perth, Western Australia.
                        “Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.” - Oscar Wilde

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                        • #27
                          Yeah, that plastic piece. Clips to the radiator and jams up against the front edge of the valve cover. Always adds 10 minutes to re-assembly. I've never zip tied it, but making sure it's clipped to the radiator is a pain. Thankfully, I should be good for another 2 years now.

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                          • #28
                            does 49016A need to be removed? I haven't gotten that far - but it doesn't appear that way

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                            • #29
                              You might be able to get away with it.
                              Perth, Western Australia.
                              “Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.” - Oscar Wilde

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                              • #30
                                Mine has never been an issue. Either piece. Like was stated, just another thing to "button up" on the re-assmebly.
                                They do control heat in and around that area. There are stories on the site about that front piece sliding down on the headers
                                an causing some heat/smoke/fire problems. Something you really don't want, ever.
                                "If it ain't broke, don't fix it...
                                but sometimes it just needs a mod"

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