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ZZR1200 Fork rebound question

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  • #16
    Originally posted by ajsenol View Post
    ... Get the 04-05 forks and transplant the innerds while leaving the bike up on its stand? If possible, then I can do them one at a time without a lot of disassembly?
    To swap the innards you need to dissemble them totally. The only job you are "saving" is about the easiest part, and not doing it will make many of the other parts harder! So while it makes sense to think it now, in practice it makes no sense at all.

    (-8

    Time flies like an arrow;
    Fruit flies like a banana!

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    • #17
      Got it , thanks everyone for the thought experiment and lessons learned - I'm off to find 04-05 forks and do the swap.

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      • #18
        When you find a set I recommend you strip them down and clean them out before installing them. If the oil is clean you might be ok but they are 16 years old and the set I just fitted looked like the oil had never been changed. Bush kits are easy to come by and straight forward to fit. There is a specific procedure to fitting the caps too, to ensure the damping works correctly. I fitted a fork brace at the same time.
        I am very pleased with the improvements it made to the bike and I took lots of notes while I did the job if you need anything.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Baynesy View Post
          When you find a set I recommend you strip them down and clean them out before installing them. If the oil is clean you might be ok but they are 16 years old and the set I just fitted looked like the oil had never been changed. Bush kits are easy to come by and straight forward to fit. There is a specific procedure to fitting the caps too, to ensure the damping works correctly. I fitted a fork brace at the same time.
          I am very pleased with the improvements it made to the bike and I took lots of notes while I did the job if you need anything.
          Changing seals and bushings on the 2005 forks is easy peasy. If I can do it anyone can.. Messy job though I laid down a sheet of plastic on the garage floor to help with the clean up. Old fork oil is hard to clean up off of cement.

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          • #20
            I picked up a complete set of forks, with upper and lower triple trees for $150 off of EBAY (free shipping too!) to do the same thing, except I intend to replace the complete forks, and will put the Steel Braided Brake lines and the set of NISSIN calipers I purchased together in the Spring..

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            • #21
              yes Kawasakian - So you're the one that got that deal off ebay! I was a little late to get them. But, I'm headed down that same road. I did the braided lines a while ago and it make a lot of difference - but still not quite the stopping power I'm wanting. What NISSAN calipers are you going with? I read somewhere that the calipers from a zx9r from 02-03 are the way to go.

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              • #22
                Those are the NISSIN calipers I purchased off of EBAY I'm 99% sure, I got what the forum recommended. They were in better shape than the pictures showed. I'll be posting pictures of my bike, I made a new muffler set up, I had to remove those Nuclear Reactors. I shaved around 38 lbs. off of the bike. I've had a lot of Oral Surgery sand haven't been able to do much over the last 1.5 months. My bike has only 4395 miles on it, it's really not even broken in yet. I got it for $2800 bucks, what a find! :)

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by BIG O View Post

                  All you have to do is take of the brake calipers, front wheel, fender and loosen the upper and lower triple clamp bolts.

                  Fork tubes should slide right out.

                  Biggest issue is finding a way to support the front end off the ground while removing the tubes.

                  Don't know if putting the bike on the centerstand and weighting down the rear end will raise the front end enough to do that?????

                  Should be able to do it in less than 2 hours I'd think.
                  I put a concrete anchor in one corner of my garage and bolted an "eyelet" to it. Backed the bike up to it, put it on the center stand and attached a ratcheting strap to the grab handles and the eyelet. It raises the front enough to pull the front wheel and then the fork tubes and it is held it three points securely.
                  Government's first duty is to protect the people, not run their lives.

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                  • #24
                    I have a 4'x8' Trailer that works great as a motorcycle work bench. The railing is only on the first foot, so I have access to the hole rear of the bike. I took off the center stand, the lowering kit wouldn't work with it, but the holes left over have given me an idea for making a quick lift stand, using clevis pins, and the stock center stand holes.

                    I have tie down straps to get the rear end in the air, using a pair of scissors jacks with a 2'x4' as a fulcrum. I can get the front end pretty high, and the bike being tied down at 3 points makes it real stable. I don't have to worry about jerking it around. I'm going to do the front end, NISSIN calipers, and steal Braided lines at the same time, lowering the front end 1" inch, just like the rear.. I also purchased the proper Master Cylinder for these particular brakes and it has a remove fluid reservoir, which I like, as when brakes get hole, that reservoir can feed more fluid. I'll have to make a mount for it, easy stuff. :)

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