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  • #16
    Productive day today, guys!

    Bled the clutch hydraulics and front brakes (replaced nasty fluid). Went rather quickly, for once!
    Installed air box and filter.
    Installed V&H end can.

    Added oil and coolant, primed carbs, hit the starter and- VROOM!!!

    Idles well, revs well and has 15psi oil pressure @1000rpm, 30PSI @1500rpm, and over 70pis when revved past 5000.

    Now I'm waiting for the chain master link to arrive so I can install the sprocket cover and clutch cylinder, and all the other small bits, and fairings.

    One other interesting occurence- when I added the oil I put in 4.2L as written on the plate on the engine, for completely dry engine. I ran it for about a minute, shut it down and looked for leaks. No leaks-YAY!

    Then I checked the sight glass- no oil showing-GASP! Waited a few more minutes and the level had barely risen to the bottom of the glass.
    How could this be? I had the called for amount of oil, had plenty of oil pressure, WTF?!?!
    I drained the oil from both sumps, and it was the same amount. So I poured it back in, re started and stopped the engine and waited-same result.

    So I started adding oil...basically it took the entire 4.75 (5qt) jug of Mobile-1 to raise the level in the glass to 3/4. So much for factory specs....


    • #17
      Great news!

      Did you check the oil level with the bike on the centre stand or the wheels? It reads low on the stand.
      "You don't get slower with age, you just get more cautious." Michael Rutter

      06 Ocean Blue ZZR1200, the coolest colour.
      99 Yamaha R1


      • #18
        Moise-yes ,I checked it on the stand although I made sure it was level. But great to know for in the future! Thanks! Oh well, a little extra oil never hurts...

        Just out of curiosity, do you (or anyone else) know how long it takes to see the oil in the glass after shut down? It rises quickly now, within seconds of shutdown.

        I think everything is working properly now, but I don't want to overlook something.



        • #19
          The oil level does come to it's level quickly. It's odd that you were able to place an extra quart and get a proper read on the sight glass.

          I always pull both drainplugs and oil filter while on the center stand. Four Quarts brings the oil level to about 1/4 inch from the top of the sight glass.
          Sin's a good mans brother.


          • #20
            Hi Dondiego, it wasn't a full quart, more like an extra 55cc. A totally empty engine calls for 4.20L, according to the plate on the cases.I ended up putting in 4.75L.

            This is probably because I not only removed the filter but also removed the oil pan/sump, opened the clutch cover, and emptied (and flushed) the oil cooler and lines.
            It's probably still a little over-filled, but not by much. I'll check it again tomorrow but for tonight I'm happy!



            • #21
              It is a pain to check the oil level with the bike on its wheels. I got my wife to help me one day, then compared it to the level on the centre stand.

              As long as it's not way overfilled, it doesn't matter. I aim for half way up the sight glass.
              "You don't get slower with age, you just get more cautious." Michael Rutter

              06 Ocean Blue ZZR1200, the coolest colour.
              99 Yamaha R1


              • #22
                Well guys, except for some fiddly bits-IT"S DONE!

                The hydraulics have been disassembled , inspected, cleaned, reassembled and bled.All the seals were soft and undamaged, so I cleaned them thoroughly with brake fluid and swabs and re-installed.
                The bleeding process was the most painless I have ever had the fortune to experience (luck I guess).

                Chain cleaned, lubed, new master link installed and tension set (with axle rotated to lowest point).

                Installed on-board oil pressure gauge, but still need to fabricate gauge mount (one of the fiddly bits). I only took a couple of pics but it was easy enough that a description will suffice.I'll add the pics when I get the gauge mount finished.

                I ordered a "Steel braided gauge line kit" off Amazon for $30 (I bought a 48" long one just in case but had to "service loop" it. A 36" would probably work better).
                The line came with -4 AN to 1/8 NPT adapters. I bought a 1.75" 100psi gauge on Amazon for $17. I also bought a 90* and a 45* M-F NPT elbow from the local ACE hardware $5 ea.
                So-Remove oil gallery plug from left side under timing cover, drill and tap for 1/8 NPT, screw in a 90* 1/8 NPT M-F, screw on -4 AN adapter, screw on line, rout as desired, screw on -4 AN adapter, screw on 45* NPT elbow, connect gauge. Remember to wrap all NPT threads with Teflon tape.

                Last thing remaining is to paint the front fender, since I'm using the one off the ZZR1200 along with the forks. Tomorrow I'm planning a short loop as a shake-down cruise. Wish me luck!



                • #23
                  Good luck! Sounds like you make your own luck.
                  KN, this ride's for You.



                  • #24
                    Went out for a shake-down cruise today, a little over 90 miles.

                    Everything worked well. Good oil pressure (50psig @ 4000rpm, rising to over 80 at higher revs), temp stayed at the "barely warm" mark, shifted nicely, pulls like a rocket!
                    No oil, fuel, hydraulic or coolant leaks. I didn't hear any strange noises, but we had some heavy winds today (about 25mph, with gusts of around 40mph-it felt like I was riding at a 45* angle at times!). I don't ride without a helmet as a rule, but may have to do a short hop to listen for noises.

                    I didn't have a lot of experience with the ZX11 engine so it's hard to compare the two, but it seems like this one has a bit more torque right off the bottom. I think If I was really careful with the clutch I could pull away from a stop with no throttle (1100rpm idle). I didn't notice any "flat spots" in the rev range, but it was kind of a sensory overload today with the wind and all. And after about 7000rpm it's all afterburners anyway!

                    I did notice that it cranks a bit longer before it fires on hot re-start. Cold is instantaneous. Any thoughts?

                    The cartridge forks off the ZZR1200 feel super. Nice and compliant but not mushy, although I will dial in more spring pre-load for my substantial weight...

                    I do have to look into machining some bar risers though. My neck doesn't bend that far any more, and I'm looking across the brow ridge of my helmet. Not very comfortable, or safe.
                    Does anyone know how the actual tubular part of the bars are held into the aluminum riser? I'm kicking around some ideas...

                    If anyone has any questions about the build feel free to ask and I'll be happy to tell you what I know.

                    Well that's it for now guys, I'm calling it a success for the time being!