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Thread: ZZR 1100 carb problems

  1. #1

    ZZR 1100 carb problems

    Hello,

    I am a new owner of a ZZR 1100 (2001a) and I have some problems with it:

    First, symptoms: it is realy hard to start the bike when the otside temperature falls below about 17 degrees C during the night. With or without choke, it just will not start. Basically I just have to let the starter turn the engine around for about a minute or more (ofcourse resting it for small periods during the time) pulling the choke lever on for periods and the pushing it off again. Then after some time, one cilinder will start fireing after I have pushed the choke lever off again and then I just have to play with the throttle and bring the engine to work.
    When it has starter for a small period, then it will start normaly.

    Also, when running on idle rpm, it seems to me that one cylinder does not work well.

    The bike is a bit low on power. I have compared it with a ZX-9r and a Blackbird by driving at the same speed (about 90km/h) in 6th gear and accelerating at the same time. Both other bikes will leave me behind quite quickly.

    First things first, what could be the problem of the starting issue? Since the bike starts normally when the engine has been started before, I thought that the reason should be in the choke. I have cleaned everything with carb cleaner and compressed air but have not reasembled it yet since I want to buy new o-rings.

    What is this whole A in this picture? Should it be opened or closed? http://mb1.live.hot.ee/rps/D/1650133.jpg?t=2

    Am I correct in guessing that the whole B is where the choke circuit takes the extra fuel?

    What are these things for http://mb1.live.hot.ee/rps/D/1650130.jpg?t=2 and how can i check that theu are OK?

    Cheers,
    Evar[/img]

  2. #2
    Senior Member Miyagi-san jimmymac's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Site, 3var.

    Someone should have some answers for you soon.
    KN, this ride's for You.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Sensei reidmct's Avatar
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    Re: ZZR 1100 carb problems

    Quote Originally Posted by 3var
    What is this whole A in this picture? Should it be opened or closed? http://mb1.live.hot.ee/rps/D/1650133.jpg?t=2
    I think that is a plug that fills a hole made during manufacture to create an internal channel.


    Quote Originally Posted by 3var
    Am I correct in guessing that the whole B is where the choke circuit takes the extra fuel?
    Yes


    Quote Originally Posted by 3var
    What are these things for http://mb1.live.hot.ee/rps/D/1650130.jpg?t=2 and how can i check that theu are OK?
    They are the Fuel Cut valves. They are probably OK. But if you want to test them: Remove the valve apply 12 volts to the two wires (polarity does not matter). The valve rod should move between 2 and 2.5mm. If it moves more or less than that amount, the valve must be replaced. Always install the valve only on the carb it came from (do not mix them up).


    Have you done any other basic troubleshooting steps, such as checking compression and spark?

    Have you checked the fuel level in the carbs?

    Are you certain that your battery is good? (Have you actually had it tested, or at least checked its voltage?)

    Does the bike produce visible smoke when it is idling or when it is accelerating under load?
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  4. #4
    VIP/Contributing Member Sensei loic's Avatar
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    also, check your plugs and plugs wire. start the bike with tank, airbox off, remove the rubber boot on 1 plug if the idle goes down then that cylinder ok, then to next one.
    some arcing may also
    occure in the plug well , apply some diastelic (or what evr its called) grease.

    if the carbs are the same on the 11 and 12, remove the floater, if i remember well, there is a screw and under that a metal screen. .










    the 11 and 12, under t
    *

  5. #5
    Senior Member Miyagi-san jimmymac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by loic
    also, check your plugs and plugs wire. start the bike with tank, airbox off, remove the rubber boot on 1 plug if the idle goes down then that cylinder ok, then to next one.
    some arcing may also
    occure in the plug well , apply some diastelic (or what evr its called) grease.

    if the carbs are the same on the 11 and 12, remove the floater, if i remember well, there is a screw and under that a metal screen. .










    the 11 and 12, under t
    Don't listen to Loic when He's been drinking!


  6. #6
    VIP/Contributing Member Sensei loic's Avatar
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    I was at work and posting from my phone....

  7. #7
    Hi,
    Sorry for the delay, we have a lot of snow here in Estonia so could not get to the place where my bike is to work on it.

    a) First, I know that the compression was checked when I bought the bike. I don’t remember the exact values but I believe that they were between 8,5 and 9,2 (I don’t remember whether the units were bars or atmospheres) . What is the lowest compression that should worry me? I have to tool to check compression but I am not sure that its working. When I turn the engine around, the pointer of the tool moves to 10-12 but when I stop, it will stay around 8.
    b) I have not checked the spark but I will do it. How can I check the coils? I know that I should measure the resistance of the primary and secondary coils but what are the lowest values?
    c) I didn’t check the float level but after I put the carb back together, I will certainly do it.
    d) The bike does not smoke.
    e) About the hole A – should there be a hole or a plug? Mine has a hole there and it is connected to the hole (B) where the extra fuel for choke is pulled. That does not make any sense to me since as I understand, the extra fuel is pulled with vacuum but since A is above the gas level then it should only pull air. Or am I wrong?

    BR,
    Evar

  8. #8
    VIP/Contributing Member Master Leo's Avatar
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    Do you have the bowls separated from the body of the carb? If so, is there an O-ring around a shaft that connects the bowl and the body? Not the gasket between the two. I am not familiar with the 1100 so this may not be part of the design. If this O-ring is present, examine them closely for nicks, breaks and other signs of wear or brittleness. If these leak they make that cylinder so rich it fouls. Hard to start, stumbles at low RPM but clears at high RPMs.
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  9. #9
    VIP/Contributing Member Sensei loic's Avatar
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    for the ZZR 1200 (I do not have the specs for the zx11)
    the compression:
    cylinder compression: (usable range) 879-1350 kpa ; (8.96-13.8 kgf/cm2, 127-196 psi) @ 320 r/min (rpm) with electric sarter

  10. #10
    VIP/Contributing Member Sensei loic's Avatar
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    still for the 1200:
    ignition system:
    pick up coil resistance : 380-570 (I dont know how to do the horse shoe symbol.....)
    3 needle arcing distance: 6mm (0.24 in) or more
    primary winding resistance (whatever that means...lol) 2.3- 3.5 (+horse shoe symbol)
    secondary winding resistance 12-18 K ( +horseshoe symbol)

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